How to get to (and from) Muuido

  1. Catch subway for 45 minutes from Nonhyeun to Hapjeong.
  2. Wait for 30 minutes while hungover friend wakes up.
  3. Sit and drink coffee for an hour waiting for other friend to turn up.
  4. Catch subway for 1 hour from Hapjeong to Incheon.
  5. Wait for 30 minutes at bus stop.
  6. Catch bus (30-45 minutes) to Incheon airport.
  7. Get dropped off 2klms from ferry terminal. Walk for 20-30 minutes.
  8. Wait for ferry (5 minutes).
  9. Catch ferry (2 minutes).
  10. Catch small bus (5 minutes).
  11. Arrive at “Silmi Resort” at 6pm to find low tide, mud flats and no water.
  12. Spend an hour sitting on the beach.
  13. Decide to return home because someone else has to work the next day.
  14. Repeat steps 8-10 in reverse.
  15. Arrive at Incheon airport. Friend loses phone somewhere in airport (discovered later).
  16. Catch airport bus back to Hapjeong in 35 minutes.
  17. Realise what a complete waste of time outward journey was.
  18. Finally eat dinner in Hongdae around 10pm.
  19. Catch subway back to Nonhyeun at midnight.
  20. Forced to get off subway after four stops.
  21. Subway closes.
  22. Catch group taxi with maniac driver.
  23. Finally arrive home around 1am.
  24. Never do this again.
Jongno, Seoul

Jongno, Seoul

During my first Asialink residency I stayed in a hostel in the Jongno sam-ga (종로3가) area of Seoul.

The Jongno area constitutes the old core of the city, roughly bordered by Sejong-daero in the west, the palace district to the north, Jongmyo to the east and the renovated Cheonggyecheon stream to the south.

The entire area is a warren of alleyways and streets lit up at night by insanely bright neon signs, most of which advertise shops, bars, restaurants and PC Bangs.

This is what it looked like in 2005. God knows what it looks like now.